Check your AG's Micro-faceted Girdle!
01-06-2015, 09:51 AM,
Check your AG's Micro-faceted Girdle!
Just want to let AG owners know that I purchased an AG from Wink that does not have a micro-faceted girdle. It looks like an attempt was made but something was not lined up right. The bottom set of micro-facets are there, but there are two unpolished bump marks where the top part of the micro-faceting would be. This in no way affects the performance of the stone. The stone is beautiful and a real sparkler, which is why this is so upsetting. I am normally very vigilant about checking over every mm of the stones I buy but this one slipped by BTD, NAGL, Wink, and me. Being that this is the 4th AG I had purchased and that I was buying it from Wink I didn't go over the stone as I normally do. The main reason I bring it up is because the micro-faceted girdle is a patent pending identifier for the Amora Gem. Which means that it is the only gemstone out there that has this micro-faceted girdle. BTD says they opted for this feature to be it's identifier rather than laser inscribing the girdle because it is unique and is now patent pending. Because mine is lacking the full micro-faceting, should I ever decide to sell it, it could be called into question whether this stone is actually an Amora Gem. So I am sure you can understand my concern about my stone.

I just wanted to let others know that this has happened so that you can check your stones out as well, just to make sure others weren't missed too. I am truly hoping that this is a one time miss.

I have talked to Wink about it and we are waiting to hear back from BTD as to what to do next. I will keep you all posted.

For reference here is a video of the stone with the bad girdle (sorry the video is so shaky):

And here is a video of one of my other AG's Micro-faceted Girdle the way it is supposed to look:

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  • mmascall, Venustar7
01-06-2015, 11:07 AM,
RE: Check your AG's Micro-faceted Girdle!
Thanks for the comparison. Without the 2nd video I doubt that I'd know what to look for.

No offense meant to BTD, but I am going to wait until the C&C patent expires and also until all of these weird cut and performance issues stop happening and BTD arrives at something close to a perfected product. These stones are not inexpensive, and I don't think it's fair to expect customers to settle for less than the best. It's one thing to name the flaw(s) and mark it down. But another to pass off "seconds" as "firsts."

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01-06-2015, 11:30 AM,
RE: Check your AG's Micro-faceted Girdle!
I'm sorry to hear this happened to you. Let us know what happens next.

One day, I'll be a crazy old lady weighed down by all my baubles and it will be glorious.
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01-06-2015, 06:34 PM,
RE: Check your AG's Micro-faceted Girdle!
Just as an FYI Here is a copy of what was posted in the Amora Gem Blog...The Amora Gem Chapter thread regarding the micro-faceted girdle:

"We will not be laser engraving the Amora Gem - here's why: One other big change as we went into production. We have opted not to laser engrave the girdles. The reason for that goes back to my mention in a prior blog post that we had developed a 'crowning touch' for the Amora Gem. At that time I didn't want to go into details as we had a patent application in progress for it.
That patent application has now been filed, so let's delve into our new invention to further the beauty of the Amora gem.

Every diamond/gem has a girdle. This of course is the meet point, or waist line, between the top half (crown) and bottom half (pavillion) of the stone. The typical process is to simply leave it either rough or polish it flat. In some higher end diamonds, the girdle will be faceted with flat facets along the outside. Regardless, with at best flat facets on it, the amount of sparkle around the girdle area is minimal and it generally acts as a window into the stone rather than reflecting light.

Now, because we are cutting with our robot our head cutter came up with a genius plan to take the one area that is not actually optimized for light play and developed what we call a 'crown girdle'. Basically, instead of simply having a flat side, we actually put a gentle micro-crest to it and split the top and bottom sides and then run micro-facets all around the perimeter of that.

The result is that even the girdle now has a bit of life and sparkle to it, so it adds to the liveliness of a side view of the Amora Gem. When viewed closely, it creates a bit of a 'lace' look all around the girdle.

Here's a diagram that clarifies from our patent filing:

Sparkly eye candy found at!

As a result of this, we decided that the micro-faceted crown girdle already accomplishes a unique id to the Amora gem when viewed under magnification, since it is uniquely our own invention. And in addition, we were concerned the letter laser engraving might disrupt the flow of the micro-faceting and interfere with it from a beauty perspective.

Thus, we have opted not to engrave the girdle.

That patent application was officially filed yesterday. And for reference, BTD is now up a total of 8 patents pending smile and we have up to two more in the works right now."

Here is a link to the page that the post is on (it is about half way down the page Post #817599 - 08/17/13 12:18 AM):

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01-07-2015, 07:34 PM,
RE: Check your AG's Micro-faceted Girdle!
Wow that's odd. I'll admit I was blinded by the amazing sparkle of both stones, so it was hard for me to see, but I kind of could. Odd that it seems like the bottom part worked but the top didn't? Have you posted about this in the BTD forum? Lots more ladies with gems there. I guess on second thought, I'm not sure that's the best idea until you know what they'll do about it.
But seriously, I don't think I would have checked for that. It's so tiny and something I would have thought would be caught in quality control. Which of your gems is it that has it? The first one you got or the second?

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01-08-2015, 09:33 AM,
RE: Check your AG's Micro-faceted Girdle!
Actually @Bluespawkles it is my 4th AG that has the bad girdle. The first two I got back in April 2014, a 7.4mm G-VS1 and a 6.7mm F-IF, video of the good girdle was on the 6.7mm F-IF. I decided to set the 7.4mm into my Regal setting, and sold the 6.7mm. After wearing the 7.4mm about 5 months I really felt that it was a little too big for my comfort level. Kicked myself for selling the smaller stone, but found a used Vatche for a steal that had a 6.9mm stone in it before. So I started hunting for a 6.9mm AG. A 6.9mm H-VS1 AG came up and I snagged it but when I took the stone and Vatche into my local jeweler to set it, they mangled the Vatche. I sent it to Wink to send back to Vatche the have it fixed and they did a beautiful job but in th end the shape of the head and height of the head just isn't what I wanted. I still have the ring which is for sale. In an effort to have me leave the 6.9mm AG in the Vatche Wink and I discussed another AG that he had in stock, a 7.2mm F-VVS1 and about it fitting well into my Regal setting and being a bit smaller, so I would be more comfortable. So I sold the 7.4mm and had Wink put the 7.2mm F-VVS1 and after it was set and was checking the prongs is when I noticed that it had the bad girdle. It is such a shame because the stone performance is amazing and it is my favorite out of all the AG's I have had. But now that I have seen the girdle I can un-see it and it just deflates me thinking about keeping it and settling. The microfaceted girdle is so beautiful and it is like this special little extra secret AG's have over any other stone, including diamonds. It really is the icing on the cake when it comes to a perfect stone for me, so the AG I end up with really needs to have it. And if I am paying full price for the stone it needs to have it.

So far Wink has offer exchange the stone for another or give me a refund. He wanted to make it right for me. Unfortunately the one stone that he actually had that was close to the size and color was sold before my email got to him that I would be interested in it as an exchange. So I am back to waiting for inventory in the size I want to become available. BTD has not really weighted in yet. It would be awesome if this stone could just go back to cutting and have the rest of the faceting put on it, because the performance is spectacular, but it doesn't look like that will be an option.

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  • lovedogs
01-08-2015, 02:18 PM,
RE: Check your AG's Micro-faceted Girdle!
OMG! What is up with you having THE WORST LUCK EVER with setting these AGs! I'm glad I'm finally caught up on the AG saga. I was worried this was your 6.9 that you loved so much that had the bad girdle. I thought that was your second AG, not your third. Now I get it.
I noticed you are only selling the Vatche setting now so are you keeping the 6.9 one loose? It sounds like you love this 7.2 one even more, if it would just be HOW IT IS SUPPOSED TO BE! UGH! It would bother me too. I hadn't heard about the micro faceted girdle until this thread and it's cool and unique and as you said, the signature for the gem. The frustrating thing is that it got mounted before this was caught. And that YOU caught it. Not that I blame Wink, but what was BTD thinking there?
I'm sorry Brit. I hope they work it out soon. You've been an awesome customer and you deserve to have it made right.

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01-09-2015, 08:59 AM,
RE: Check your AG's Micro-faceted Girdle!
I know @Bluespawkles!! I am feeling like I do have the worst luck ever! The news just keeps getting worse and worse. Wink and I emailed yesterday about this stone and others and he told me that BTD has now decided that they are going to discontinue the microfaceted girdle. Less posted on my thread on the other board and confirmed it yesterday. Big fat BOO!! He also said that the "bumps" or the chunks in the girdle on my stone are what they call "naturals" and are places on the girdle that are actually the outside of the SiC crystal. That these also occur in diamonds. Unfortunately I am still learning about all anomalies that can occur with diamonds and other gems so I don't know enough to form an opinion. But the overall message I got was this is the way this stone is and those "naturals" come with its performance. Take it or leave it.

I feel a lot less anxious now that the communication seems to be flowing from all sides, but it still has me stuck on what I should do about this stone. Return it and hope that another stone that I like comes up that may have a better girdle, or be done with it. I have asked for a discount if I do keep this stone. Whether I will get one, I don't know. And really whether I want one I don't know either. It would make living with this stone easier, but it still isn't the perfect stone in my eyes.

Ladies, if you were in my position, how would you feel and what would you do?

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01-09-2015, 11:11 AM,
RE: Check your AG's Micro-faceted Girdle!
Blargh. I read that thread and have to be careful how I word this, because I have some strong feelings about it...
I really didn't feel like there was any empathy in his post for your situation, and I think it's pretty lame to say 'hey, you were offered a refund', with no apology, without acknowledging their mistake or the inconvenience it is to you to have to return an imperfect AG. If that girdle is so acceptable, why wasn't HE the one announcing, 'hey, the micro-faceting thing failed, no big'.

So anyway, I would feel that way if the stone hadn't been mounted already. Given that it WAS, the response only makes me madder. Since he clearly has talked to Wink about your situation, he knows the stone is already mounted and you'd be reluctant to mess with it. Easy for him to say, 'you were told you could have a refund', when he KNOWS that it's not that simple, thanks to his lack of quality control. On the other hand, a lot of places won't let you return mounted stones, because they could have been damaged in the process. So I guess one could say they are at least allowing that for you. HOWEVER, no apology for not catching that and letting it slip through and get mounted in that ring? No assurance that your stone was still beautiful and high quality and one of a kind? No admitting they were in the wrong?

Just an 'oh, we aren't doing that now. You were offered a refund.' As if that solves everything for you, including the shipping, the inconvenience, the stress.

Um, okay.

Super disappointing from someone who kept insisting that all the AGs would be uniform because of their robot cutting.

All right. Rant over. So, here we are now. BighugBighugBighug

You can try getting a discount (which I get would make you feel more comfortable. It's not about the money, just about knowing it was fair), but many vendors don't do partial discounts and see anyone looking for them as trying to get something from them. Also, they can simply pull it out and sell it to someone who isn't looking at the girdle. They may prefer to do that.
So, let's say you don't get a discount, and it's return or nothing...

I cruised through lots of pictures of the AG yesterday, and here's my conclusion. You were drawn to the AG as the ultimate gem. Due to Less's marketing, you assumed a lot of the things that would bother you wouldn't be present. That has turned out not to be true. AGs have very varying performance. Some have naturals. They no longer have a micro-faceted girdle. Some are duds. Some are amazing. You know this better than most having seen FOUR of them.

Think of it this way, if they had noticed the girdle issue, but said, 'hey, we aren't micro-faceting anymore, and so this won't affect your resale, but we have this AMAZING AG in stock, one of the prettiest we've ever seen, a real sparkler, but it doesn't have the micro-faceting properly on the girdle. What do you think?' If you truly would have said, 'no, I'll take my chance with one of the less sparkly ones, the girdle would bother me too much', then you should return the stone. If you would have tried it anyway, then it's more complicated.

Could you make a conscious decision to wear it and feel it was the perfect ring? If it was me, that's what I would do. I would feel proud that I had such an amazing Amora. If I could pick a flaw for an AG to have, of all the flaws I've seen mentioned (milkiness, cut, plastic look, darkness under table), I'd pick that girdle issue hands down.

I know you want your 'one ring to rule them all', but I think most of the ladies who have their forever ring would tell you that they 'settled' in some tiny way. At least I did. For me, with my lotus ring from Schubach's, I was kind of disappointed by the bottom of the shank not being thicker, like I had pictured from the CADs. But, knowing my options were to try and remake it and maybe end up with a different issue, I swallowed the awful ball of anxiety in my throat and just held that thing up in the light. DANG, it was sparkly. And handmade for me. And looked just like I pictured, from most angles. Big picture!

But maybe that's just me. Perhaps other women hold out for and get 'perfect' rings. But I think that being happy with a project often means deciding which kind of imperfect you can accept, and then choosing to be happy with it.

But by all means, I support you if you want to return and try again. We'll be here to scrutinize and sympathize with you. There really might be perfect out there if you keep looking. It's just up to you if you want to take on the possible financial and emotional costs.

Wow! That was long. Sorry!
P.s. Have you taken a sparkle video of this new AG that has the girdle issue? Since you are the AG expert who has seen FOUR, and think it's the best performance so far, I'm dying to see it!

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  • Bluespawkles, CricketBug
01-09-2015, 12:10 PM,
RE: Check your AG's Micro-faceted Girdle!
Well, if it were me, and the stone was beautiful, I would not really care about the girdle. I would view it like inclusions; anything that is not visible without a loupe and does not impact performance tends not to bother me. I like my settings to be macro perfect, but with stones I guess I have more room for *flaws* as I think that makes them one of a kind.

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